Just How Does The Other Half Live?

Just back from a holiday vacation with Mr. Wonderful and it was, well, wonderful! I'm pretty sure he felt the same since he didn't screech up to my front door after nine full days together and chuck me along with all my luggage, skis, boots etc. out of the car and speed away. Admittedly, I was slightly (only slightly) anxious about spending an entire week together non-stop, day in and day out when we'd only had a history of spending a mere weekend together and been dating for just four months. We're still in that "getting to know one another" stage. I've known friends who've gone on vacations with new loves only to return no longer a couple. While I wasn't in fear of that happening, I was concerned about not having enough "Loreley Time".

My concerns turned out to be completely unwarranted. From the moment we set off, after fueling up on Starbucks' coffees and low-fat turkey bacon breakfast sandwiches, we got along famously and enjoyed each other's company for nine days straight....day in and day out.

Our road trip to Banff involved a two day drive with a stop over in Revelstoke the first night. We stayed at the Powder Pillow B&B where we were put up in a charming comfortable loft apartment. I would highly recommend this accommodation to anyone staying in Revelstoke, BC. Mr. Wonderful was feeling a bit under the weather, but the comforts this loft provided him rest and helped nip that cold in the bud a bit sooner rather than later.

We arrived in the beautiful mountain town of Banff, Alberta late the following afternoon. I was immediately drawn in to this little village nestled at the base of the most stunning mountains I've seen since my trip to Europe, so many years ago now.

We checked into our home for the week, the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, and scoped out our room. Just what does one get for the exorbitant fee for a King View Room at a fancy pants castle hotel? As it turned out, not that much. Neither of us was completely "wowed". It was fairly basic, comfortable, did have an incredible view from the corner alcove window, and the bathroom needed updating (cracked tile, peeling wallpaper and worn bedspread is what you'd expect from a Travel Lodge Motel, not from a Fairmont Hotel). However, I wasn't about to look a gift-horse in the mouth and Mr. Wonderful isn't exactly a complainer, so we unpacked our bags and made it home. Later we discussed that if we had complained, we're sure they would have found us a more suitable room. I've worked in tourism. I know the drill. I also had contempt for the whiners. C'est le vie.

Throughout the week, we kept reminding ourselves that the room fees did include all the amenities of the hotel, which were quite elaborate; indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools, exclusive spa (for additional exorbitant fee, of course), unaffordable shops toting designer wear and exotic furs, several overpriced restaurants, a wine bar, activities for kids and families (if that had been our thing), a fitness center we had every intention of using, skating rink, ice bar complete with a curling rink, and, of course, the privilege of boasting "we're staying at the Fairmont." Seeing how the other half lives for one week was somewhat eye-opening for this hostel traveller.

Our first full day in Banff, we walked briskly into town and shopped, saw the sights, took pictures like the tourists we were, drank hot cocoa to warm up from the frozen temps, and then walked back to the hotel for a tour of The Castle. The tour guide, Dave, had been with the hotel since he was a young lad. Dave, no longer young or a lad, was the hotel historian and quite the character. We couldn't tell if his speech was practiced or on the fly, but he was sputtering and stammering out anecdotes and dropping famous names in hopes of impressing his audience. Although his stories were a bit difficult to follow, the tour itself was impressive. The hotel is vast with public areas open for all to wander and enjoy any time of day or night. It really was built in the spirit of an old castle and even after a week, I was unable to confidently work my way around the labyrinths and rabbit warrens tunneling in every direction.

We skied at Sunshine Mountain, which had more snow than the other two resorts of Norquay and Lake Louise, but was still in need of several more inches. It was impossible to go off piste and anytime I tried to find an open black diamond, my skis found the hard sharp ground before I could see it coming. I still haven't mustered the courage to view the bottom of my boards!

We tried our hand at curling, ice skating and took what sounded like a romantic sleigh ride on Christmas Eve. We booked this excursion our first day in Banff when there was loads of fresh snow covering the ground and predictions of more to come. Three days of clear sunshine filled skies later, no snow and chilling temperatures, we were on our way being drug through partially snow covered, lumpy and grassy fields by horses that seemed less than enthusiastic. And romantic? We were loaded onto a twelve person sleigh huddled together under stinky old blankets. We passed the quintessential charming "one horse open sleigh" along the way. A young couple was cozied up drinking hot rum drinks, cloaked in fur throws and looking somewhat more comfortable than anyone on our rig. We had the screaming child begging to go home, the mother scolding him to be quiet, a horse with a stinky bottom and a lot of miserably cold adults hoping the ride would be cut short, but no one willing to pipe up and suggest taking a vote to end the madness. When the sleigh finally returned to the barn 45 minutes later, everyone piled off as fast as their frozen bodies could move and ran for the warmth of their cars. The screaming child had actually fallen asleep at some point mid-whine. I'm pretty sure it was simply a case of hypothermia that lulled him into a frozen coma.

Later that night, still in the mood for romance, we had a special Christmas Eve dinner at the Banffshire Club restaurant in the hotel. It was our first meal in the hotel itself, it was Christmas Eve, and we wanted to make it memorable. Upon being seated, our waitress wheeled a complete bar in front of our table explaining three different kinds of champagne on offer, the unique martini created just for the occasion and any other spirit we might crave. Without asking the price (it seemed crude in a place of that caliber to actually ask the price of anything, hence the phrase "if you have to ask, you can't afford it.") we each ordered a glass of the Moet & Chandon Brut Rose. Uh hem...we proceeded to order a second glass still not knowing how much this bubbly was costing. You can see where this is headed. We both ordered the special Christmas menu at $89 a plate; Mr. Wonderful's was a poached sole and mine was the 'traditional turkey dinner'. The menu description stated "turkey breast, dressing, silky mashed potatoes, green beans and cranberry sauce". I was a little hesitant about ordering this meal as I didn't want anything too heavy and I don't eat much dressing, nor do I care for cranberry sauce. Turns out, none of that mattered. The turkey, although tasty, consisted of three 2" round pucks of meat. There was a teaspoon sized dollop of dressing and three tiny melons of "silky" mashed potatoes squeezed out via a pastry bag set atop a smear of what I can only assume to be the cranberry sauce. Sprouting out each of the potato balls was a green bean--the diameter of a toothpick, but only a quarter of the length. After all that food, a bread basket, the two glasses of champagne and a heavenly dessert, I didn't go away hungry by any means. I also didn't go away with my wallet in tact. I'm not accustomed to paying those kinds of prices for meals and that bill, after a hefty tip, could have flown me across the country--and back. I'm not sure I'd say it was exactly 'worth it', but it was memorable, we did enjoy ourselves, we have a story, and I have gotten a small taste of how the other half lives.

Christmas Day was spent in the spa, each of getting pampered with a body treatment of choice, mineral baths, steam rooms, saunas, and general relaxation. It was pure heaven and after the meal from the previous night, I'd given in to just pretending I was Mrs. Rockefeller. Later that day we enjoyed a proper English Afternoon Tea which was fabulous and a true Christmas treat neither of us had experienced before. They were offering champagne, but we both stuck with the tea service included in the set price. Enough is enough already.

I joke about the accommodation, the costs, the moderate ski conditions and the touristy sleigh ride, but I must say, this really was one of the very best Christmases I've ever had, maybe even the best. It was truly a romantic and memorable week with someone I care for. Technically, we could have been anywhere and I would have loved it, but "The Castle" in Banff was absolutely magical.